Frequently Asked Questions
Yes! Sealing your vents and ducts means that air is delivered where it’s needed, and not into your basement, attic or crawl space. This also helps get rid of hot and cold spots in your house.
Absolutely! Leaky ducts and vents pull in dust, mold and dander and then blow them into living rooms, bedrooms, and kitchens. Gross, right? Our system can reduce leaky areas by as much as 90%, making sure dirt isn’t circulated in your house
*How much can I save on my utility bill?
On our first visit to your home, we will look for any obvious leaks in your heat and air system. We can calculate how much cold and hot air you are actually losing in places like your attic, your garage, and in between walls.Many people already know they have hot and cold spots, or their energy bills are higher than the should be. So, our initial test helps you understand how well or how poorly your system is performing. Many people are surprised to find out how much good air they are losing through leaking ducts and vents.
Without a doubt. Our formula is a water-soluble organic compound. We’ve helped hospitals, surgery centers, schools and public buildings make sure their air is clean, healthy and comfortable – and saved them energy and money in the process. You certainly can stay in your house while the technician is working (although we prefer that no one be in the home so our technicians can work quickly and efficiently), but as a precaution, we do recommend pregnant women, elderly people, and those with any breathing difficulties not be present while we are sealing your ducts and vents.
*Does your sealant emit any harmful fumes?
Holes bigger than 5/8 inches in diameter are too big for the sealant to bond to effectively. Any larger, major leaks – like broken, disconnected or damaged ducts – will need to be repaired prior to sealing. Most of the time, we uncover problems like this during our initial inspection. However, if we find this during our sealing process, we will stop our service and recommend a solution.
Some of our formula may leak into the places where your air was previously leaking – attics, garages, and wall cavities. This is totally harmless, and will dry. As part of our process, we filter the air to make sure none of our sealant vapor escapes into your living areas.
No. Our certified technicians are trained to protect all of your home equipment prior to sealing. Our formula is delivered via a temporary access point. Some items, like humidifiers or UV lights, may need to be removed and then re-installed as a precaution. Or, these items may simply be bagged or covered. If you have any extra-sensitive or expensive electronic equipment, we do recommend that you cover it – especially if it is close to air returns or registers. You don’t need to cover any furniture. Our technician will take care of all this for you.
It depends on how much duct work you have, and how many leaks you have, but generally about two hours.
We guarantee our work for at least 10 years, and we’ve stress-tested it up to 40 years in homes. We expect your heating and cooling systems to work efficiently for as long as you own your home.
Sometimes, but not always. Any ducts that are extremely dirty should be cleaned first. We find this most often in older houses. Our technician will take a look at this during the initial inspection, and recommend a cleaning if needed.
Yes. Ducts from all types of materials can be successfully cleaned after being sealed. Our formula dries into a very hard, very durable substance.
No. Our formula doesn’t coat or line your ducts. The only sealant remaining after our technician is done will be over the leak that was sealed.
The primary causes of condensation on ductwork in unconditioned crawlspaces and attics is missing or otherwise inadequate duct insulation, no or poor vapor barrier on the ducts and/or too much moisture in the ambient air. If the above are addressed properly this usually eliminates or minimizes the problem greatly. Sealing the crawlspace is generally recommended as well, and a vapor barrier on the crawl space floor or ground to decrease moisture absorption into the air is a good idea. A free standing dehumidifier should also help. Aeroseal may help to a lesser degree if duct air leaks beneath insulation are causing the duct surface temperature to reach dew point, which is the temperature when condensation begins to form. Over time this condensation will degrade the insulation’s R value and its ability to prevent the duct temperature from reaching dewpoint.
Water getting into your in-slab ductwork is typically a sign of a much larger drainage issue with your home and sealing your ducts is not the solution to your problem. We recommend that your first step be to have a licensed contractor review your drainage situation.